With the upcoming 38mm, there's still some deliberation on what sort of movement to use. Naturally, the most important criteria is that it can fit within a 10mm case structure. For a marine watch, it's imperative that it needs to have a small seconds feature.
Introducing the ST17 calibre. It's produced by Sea-Gull, perhaps one of the largest producer of mechanical movements in the world. The design of the movement itself is based from its predecessor, the ST16 and has been in production since 2001.
The features are perfect for a mid-sized watch. The downside is perhaps more on the public perception of Sea-Gull as a Chinese movement maker, of which in turn, implies it makes lesser movements. This may refer to the defect rate, the finishing of the movement, and even the price of acquiring the movements itself as it's much lower than its Japanese or Swiss counterparts.
However, issues can be significantly addressed with proper quality control and for those that still get through, should be covered by warranty. Finishing is just one of the many aspects of the watch that makes it attractive, and as for the price, again it's more of perception than anything.
On one hand, there are those who welcome the bargain of having a good watch for a better price than something that looks like it but for a significant jump in cost. And on the other, there are those who cannot get past a watch that doesn't have a popularly respected movement.
Sea-gull ST17 general specifications
- Beat rate - 21,600 bph
- Small seconds at 6 o'clock, date / no date / skeleton / jumping hour variations
- Jewels - 20, 25, 28 (depending on variation)
- Dimensionally compatible with Miyota and uses a Seiko-style automatic winding system